Hakone is a popular day or overnight trip from Tokyo. This beautiful area of Japan is nestled in the mountains surrounding the iconic Mount Fuji. It’s the perfect spot to relax and experience the Japanese nature.
Hakone was one of my favourite places I visited during my solo trip to Japan. With its stunning scenery and traditional Japanese towns, it allows you immerse yourself in a different side to the country. Hakone is known for its hot springs and epic Mount Fuji views, but this only scratches the surface of what Hakone has to offer.
Hakone is ideal as a day trip from Tokyo, but it’s also a great place to stay for a night or two. I stayed for two nights in Hakone and loved every second of it. Once it gets dark, the crowds disappear and you can really embrace this serene destination.
In this post, I’ve shared all you need to know about visiting Hakone. This includes how to get there, the best things to do and one day and a two day itinerary for Hakone.
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The best time to visit Hakone
Hakone is a destination that can be visited all year round. It’s especially beautiful during the cherry blossom season (Sakura), as well as the autumn.
Spring
Hakone is an extremely popular destination in the spring thanks to the cherry blossom (Sakura) season. The area is home to a variety of cherry blossoms and it’s a popular place for visitors to see this wonder of nature. Your best chance at seeing the cherry blossoms in Hakone is late March and into April.
Summer
The summer in Hakone brings long, hot days. It’s known to be a little cooler and less humid than Tokyo, so it’s a popular destination to escape the summer heat of the city. Having said that, the temperatures can still be high and it’s not uncommon to see heavy rain. The chances of seeing Mount Fuji in the summer months are very slim.
Autumn
The autumn is one of the best times to visit Hakone and Japan in general. The temperature is moderate; the crowds have departed and the autumn colours are alive. Hakone is one of the best places near Tokyo to see the beautiful gold, orange and red leaves of autumn. Autumn is also one of the best times of the year to see Mount Fuji from Hakone.
Read more about visiting Japan in November.
Winter
It’s possible to visit Hakone in the winter. The area can see some snowfall which could impact your itinerary. Seeing Hakone in the snow would be an incredible and unique experience.
How to get to Hakone
Hakone is a relatively straightforward journey from Tokyo. There are a couple of different ways to get there depending on your preference. Unfortunately, the Japan Rail Pass (JR Pass) doesn’t cover the full route.
Odakyu Romance Car
Taking the Odakyu Romance Car from Shinjuku Station is by far the most convenient and quickest way to get to Hakone from Tokyo. It’s designed for comfort with seats that rotate and recline, as well as having ample luggage storage, toilets and Wi-Fi on board.
The Romance Car from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto takes approximately 1 hour and 20 minutes. This makes it a fantastic option if you’re planning to visit Hakone as a day trip from Tokyo.
To travel on the Romance Car, seats must be reserved in advance. Unfortunately, it isn’t covered by the JR Pass so you’ll need to buy an entirely new ticket.
If you’re planning to buy the Hakone Free Pass (more on that below), the Odakyu Romance Car isn’t included. You’ll need to upgrade your ticket at Shinjuku Station. This is what I did when going to Hakone and it cost me 1,200 JPY ($9 USD) each way.
Upgrading to the Romance Car is definitely worth-it, especially if you’re if you don’t have long in Hakone.
Local trains
If you have the Hakone Free Pass and don’t want to upgrade to the Romance Car, the local train is your best option. This is included in the Hakone Free Pass and takes approximately 2 hours.
From Shinjuku Station, take the Odakyu Odawara Express to Odawara station. Here, you can change to the Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto station. Taking this route means you’ll have to change at Odawara, but the cost is included with the Hakone Free Pass.
With Japan Railway
If you don’t want to upgrade to the Romance Car or already have a JR Pass, there’s the option to take the Kodama Shinkansen from Tokyo to Odawara Station. From here, you can buy your Hakone Free Pass and jump on the Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto.
I’d highly suggest downloading the Japan Travel App by Navi Time. This will tell you the best way to get to where you’re going. You can also select any transport tickets you have, such as the Hakone free pass, and it will tell you if it’s included or not.
Is the Hakone Free Pass worth-it?
The Hakone Free Pass gives you unlimited access to transport options around Hakone, as well as a return journey from Tokyo (depending on which option you go for). It also offers discounted entry to some of the attractions.
If you’re planning to visit Hakone, the Hakone Free Pass will no doubt save you money. It’s available to buy as a two-day pass or a three-day pass for those planning to spend longer in the area.
It’s important to note that if travelling from Shinjuku Station, you’ll need to buy a separate ticket to use the convenient Romance Car. This can be done by going to the Odawara tourist desk at Shinjuku Station and booking your ticket.
If you already have a JR Pass, you’ll be able to use this to get to Odawara Station. From there, I’d suggest buying the Hakone Free Pass to get to Hakone-Yumoto Station.
Additionally, the Hakone Free Pass includes transport in and around Hakone. This includes the Hakone Tozan Railway, the Tozan Cable Car, the Hakone Ropeway, the Lake Ashi sightseeing cruise and most local busses. It also includes discounts at select museums and attractions in Hakone.
I’d highly recommend buying the Hakone Free Pass for your trip to Hakone. It’s difficult to imagine a scenario where you wouldn’t save money (unless you’re not planning to explore Hakone).
Next up: is Hakone worth visiting? Absolutely. Here are 10 reasons to visit Hakone.
How to get around Hakone
Getting around Hakone without a car is very easy (if you have the Hakone free pass).
All the main attractions are well connected by the Hakone Tozan Railway, the Hakone Tozan Cable Car, the Hakone Ropeway and several bus lines. It also includes unlimited rides on the Lake Ashi Sightseeing Cruise.
When collecting your Hakone Free Pass from the station, consider picking up a map of the area. This shows all the major attractions and the best way to get around.
How long to spend in Hakone?
Hakone is a popular day trip from Tokyo. If taking the Romance Car, the journey from Tokyo to Hakone takes about 80 minutes. When visiting Hakone as a day trip, make sure you start as early in the day as possible to give yourself plenty of time to explore.
Another popular option is to spend one or two nights in Hakone. This will allow you to explore more of the area, see Hakone at night, and move at a slower pace.
I spent two nights in Hakone, and it was the perfect amount of time. It gave me one full day as well as an afternoon and morning to explore further afield.
Note: if you’re staying overnight, you’ll likely be travelling with luggage. If this is the case, you can leave your luggage in the lockers at Hakone-Yumoto Station when you arrive. Alternatively, drop your luggage off at your accommodation.
The Best Things to do in Hakone
Hakone Open Air Museum
One of the most unique things to see in Hakone is the Hakone Open Air Museum. This famous museum was first opened in 1969.
The museum features a collection of modern and traditional sculptures with the famous Japanese mountains as a backdrop.
Unfortunately, I didn’t make it here due to wet weather. The museum is well-reviewed, however.
How to get there: take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Chokoku-no-Mori Station and walk from there.
Entry cost: 1600 Yen ($11 USD)
Owakudani Valley
Visiting Owakudani is an absolute must do while in Hakone. It’s part of the famous Hakone Loop so it’s easy to build into any itinerary.
Owakudani is an active volcanic valley in the Hakone area. It’s thought to have been created around 3,000 years ago. Visitors can see extraordinary volcanic activity including sulphur vents and hot springs. Thanks to the volcanic activity, this area has that classic sulphur smell (if you know, you know).
On clear days, it’s possible to see Mount Fuji. In fact, to get to Owakudani you’ll need to take the famous Hakone Ropeway which takes passengers straight over the volcanic activity. The Ropeway offers breathtaking views of Fuji if the weather plays ball.
Don’t visit Owakudani without trying one of the famous black eggs. These eggs are cooked in volcanic water which turns the eggshell black. It’s thought that for every black egg you eat, your life expectancy increases by 7 years.
The top of Owakudani is also home to the Hakone Geo Museum. The museum teaches visitors more about the geology of the area and the reason behind the volcanic activity. It only costs 100 Yen to enter. If you’re interested in the science behind what’s going on beneath your feet, consider visiting the museum.
There are some hiking trails around the area, although it’s common for these to close when volcanic activity is high.
Getting to Owakudani is an adventure in itself. First up, you’ll need to take the Hakone Tozan Railway to Gora station. Then transfer to the Cable Car to Sounzan station. From here, you can take the iconic ropeway to Owakudani station.
If you only have a small amount of time in Hakone, I’d put Owakudani at the top of your list.
Entry cost: free
Ride the Pirate Ship on Lake Ashi
No trip to Hakone would be complete without riding the famous pirate ship on Lake Ashi.
This Hakone Sightseeing Cruise takes passengers across Lake Ashi between three different locations: Togendai, Motohakone-ko and Hakonemachi-ko Ports.
The scenic cruise lasts around 30 minutes and is absolutely one of the best things to do in Hakone. The lake is beautiful whatever the weather, and you’ll also be able to see Torii gates from the water.
On a clear day, you can even see Mount Fuji from the cruise.
How to get here: board the boat either at Togendai, Motohakone-ko and Hakonemachi-ko ports.
Entry cost: free with the Hakone Free Pass
The Hakone Shrine and Heiwa no Torii (Hakone-jinja Shrine)
One of the most popular attractions in Hakone is the famous Hakone Shrine.
The Hakone Shrine is about a 15-minute walk from the Motohakone-ko port. It’s a very crowded area. I’d recommended to visit there early or late in the day.
Walk through the Torii gate and follow the lantern-lined path through the forest. You’ll soon reach the main building, nestled amongst the beautiful cedar trees.
Don’t miss the Heiwa No Torii shrine (Hakone-jinja Shrine) which is just over the road. The shrine dates back to 757 and lies in the waters of Lake Ashi. This is by one of the most scenic Torii gates in Japan.
You’ll also be able to see Heiwa No Torii from the water on the Pirate Ship. The Hakone sightseeing cruise boasts incredible views of these famed Torii gates.
I’d suggest visiting this area either early in the day or for sunset. That way you can avoid the crowds and long queue for photos. The lighting at sunset is particularly beautiful.
How to get there: get the Hakone sightseeing cruise to the Motohakone-ko port. You can also take the K or R bus from Hakone-Yumoto station.
Entry cost: free
Onshi-Hakone Park
The beautiful Onshi-Hakone Park is on the shores of Lake Ashi and boasts some epic views. If visiting on a clear day, you may even catch some glimpses of Mount Fuji.
Spend some time walking around the park and up to the Fuji viewpoint. You can get here by walking up a steep hill or up the 200-step staircase. I found the Onshi-Hakone Park to be one of the quietest areas of Hakone. There was barely anyone else in the park when I visited.
How to get to Onshi-Hakone Park: take the R or H bus from Hakone-Yumoto station. This is included in the Hakone Free Pass. It’s right next to the Hakone Checkpoint and Old Tokaido Road.
Entry cost: free
Old Tokaido Road
The Old Tokaido Road is a peaceful and short walk in Hakone. The road once connected Kyoto with Tokyo during the Edo period.
Walking the full road would take you a long time, but you can experience a short part of the walk between the Motohakone-ko port and Hakonemachi- ko port.
The Old Tokaido Road is parallel to the main road. Follow the eerie path through the towering forest. The walk will take about 20 minutes and is well worth it if you have the time.
How to get there: start at either Motohakone-ko or Hakonemachi-ko port and walk to the other via the pathway in the forest.
Entry cost: free
Hakone Checkpoint
This was once part of a crucial network of checkpoints on the Tokaido Road during the Edo period. The Hakone checkpoint today has been reconstructed to replicate what this checkpoint once looked like.
It’s a fantastic way to immerse yourself in a different side of Japan’s history, and one little people know about. If you don’t want to pay the entry fee, you can still walk along the main street and admire the wooden buildings from the outside.
There are also a few street vendors and restaurants here selling traditional Japanese food.
How to get there: the Hakone Checkpoint is between the Hakonemachi-ko port and the Onshi-Hakone Park.
Entry fee: 500 yen ($3.50)
Mishima Skywalk
The Mishima Skywalk is one of the best places to visit in Hakone. The 400m skywalk is the longest pedestrian suspension bridge in Japan. It’s known for its incredible views of Mount Fuji.
Most visitors to Hakone skip the Mishima Skywalk. This is likely due to its location. It’s quite far away from the main Hakone Loop and unless it’s a clear day, there’s not much point in visiting.
Entry to the Mishima Skywalk isn’t included in the Hakone Free Pass, but the bus there is. As of Nov 23, it cost 1000 ($7 USD) Yen to enter. A visit to the Mishima Skywalk to see Mount Fuji is well worth it if you have the time.
How to get to the Mishima Skywalk: I’d suggest taking the N65 bus from the Hakone Checkpoint or Hakonemachi-ko port area. The busses only run once per hour so plan accordingly.
Entry cost: 1000 Yen ($7 USD)
Visit an Onsen
Hakone is one of Japan’s most popular areas for hot springs. There are ample Onsen options, offering visitors and locals the chance to relax in mineral-rich water.
There are several traditional Ryokans to choose from in Hakone, most of which also include access to an Onsen.
Unfortunately, I was unable to do this due to having tattoos. Most Onsen resorts will not allow guests in their hot springs if they have a tattoo, or at least not without covering it up.
While this approach is slowly changing, I didn’t want to risk upsetting or offending anyone, so opted to skip this activity. If you have a tattoo but want to experience an Onsen, I’d suggest contacting the property beforehand. I had been told Tenzan Onsen allow small tattoos, but the reviews seemed to suggest otherwise.
Entry cost: varies
Pola Museum of Art
If you have some extra time in Hakone, consider a visit to the Pola Museum of Art. This museum houses art from famous artists including Monet, Picasso and Renoir.
The museum is in the heart of a forest surrounded by towering trees. The building and interior is designed to “blend in” with nature offering a unique setting for an art museum.
How to get there: take the Hakone Tozan railway to Gora station. From here, take the S bus to the Pola Museum of Art.
Entry cost: 1800 Yen ($13 USD)
Mount Kintoki Hike
Mount Kintoki is one of the best hikes in Hakone. This 4-mile (6km) loop track leads hikers to the summit of Mount Kintoki where on a clear day, they’ll be rewarded with beautiful views of Mount Fuji.
I almost couldn’t fit this hike into my Hakone itinerary but I’m so glad I did in the end. The hike takes you right into the heart of the mountains. There is the option to do a loop trail or return the same way. You’ll also get to visit the Kintoki Shrine during the hike.
The hike takes 3 to 4 hours to complete:
How to get to Mount Kintoki: from Hakone-Yumoto station, take the T bus to Sengoku. It’s a 15-minute walk to the beginning of the hike from there. Route L takes you slightly closer, but these busses don’t run as frequently.
Entry cost: free
A one day itinerary for Hakone (day trip from Tokyo)
If you are planning to visit Hakone as a day trip from Tokyo then you’ll have time to visit the main highlights.
This one day itinerary follows the famous Hakone loop.
Stop one: Owakudani
Your first stop is the other-worldly volcanic valley of Owakudani. This is your chance to see steaming sulphur vents, get your first glimpses of Mt Fuji and try the famous black eggs.
The journey to Owakudani includes a ride on the famous ropeway, a highlight of any trip to Hakone. The ropeway will take you right above the volcanic activity. It’s an eerie sight but stunning nonetheless.
There are a few places here to buy warm food or snacks (including the black eggs).
Note: if you want to visit the Pola Museum of Art or the Open Air Museum, I’d suggest going before Owakudani.
Stop two: Lake Ashi Sightseeing Crusie
Continue your journey on the Hakone loop and ride the famous pirate ship across Lake Ashi.
You can take the Hakone ropeway down to the Togendai Port and board the sightseeing cruise from there.
The Lake Ashi cruise is a beautiful journey across this magnificent lake. Look out for the highlights views of Mount Fuji and your first glimpses of Heiwa no Torii (Hakone-jinja Shrine).
Disembark the Pirate Ship at Hakonemachi- ko port.
Stop three: Hakone Checkpoint & Onshi-Hakone Park
Next up is the historic Hakone Checkpoint. Wander through the main street and buy an entry ticket if you want to learn more about these historic buildings.
The path takes you to Onshi-Hakone Park. Spend some time exploring the park and admiring the views of Mount Fuji if visiting on a clear day.
Stop four: Old Tokaido Road
Just over the road from Onshi-Hakone Park is part of the Old Tokaido Road. Walk down the path nestled amongst the trees.
This won’t take more than 15 to 20 minutes.
Stop five: Hakone Shrine
Continue following the main road until you reach the Hakone Shrine. Follow the path which is lined with lanterns until you reach the main building.
After visiting the Hakone Shrine, admire the Heiwa no Torii (Hakone-jinja Shrine). This is one of the most beautiful Torii gates in Japan so the queue for a photo can be a little intense, but it’s well worth-it.
Stop six: Hakone
Ride the bus back to the town of Hakone. Spend some time looking at the shops and trying some famous Hakone street food.
Your train back to Tokyo will be from the Hakone-Yumoto station.
A two day itinerary for Hakone
Spending two days in Hakone? Yay. I honestly think spending at least one night here will allow you to explore so much more of the area.
Day one
Follow the above one day itinerary for Hakone and see the Hakone loop. In the evening, relax in one of Hakone’s many Onsen.
Day two
Your second day in Hakone allows you to go further afield. Consider visiting the famous Mishima Skywalk and hiking the wondrous Mount Kintoki track.
Alternatively, visit one of the museums such as the Pola Museum of Art or Open Air Museum.
Heading to Osaka? Consider adding one of these Osaka day trips to your itinerary.
Accommodation in Hakone
Narrowing down where to stay in Hakone can be a bit of a headache. There are a few small towns to choose from, all offering different advantages of staying there. Ultimately, I think where you choose to stay depends on what you’re planning to do on the second day.
The main town of Hakone, where Hakone-Yumoto station is, offers a range of accommodation. This is also the most convenient place to stay as it means you’ll easily be able to get anywhere on the second day of your trip to Hakone.
A great budget option near Hakone-Yumoto station is the Guesthouse Azito (where I stayed). Honestly, this is one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in. It’s about a 15-minute walk from the station and away from the main town.
Another area to stay would be the town of Motohakone. This is a peaceful town right by the Hakone Shrine. It could be a good option for those visiting the Mishima Skywalk early on the second day.
For a more traditional stay in beautiful scenery, I’d suggest looking at the town of Kowakudani.
Where to eat in Hakone?
The main town of Hakone has numerous restaurants and street food options. The main issue to watch out for here is the closing time. Many of the restaurants close early in Hakone, so make sure to plan ahead.
Here are some of my favourite restaurants and food spots in Hakone.
Cocoro is a few minutes walk from the main town. This was by far the best curry I had on my trip to Japan. I can’t quite believe how delicious it was, and fairly priced too. To try some traditional Japense curry, Cocoro is a must.
Another restaurant I loved was Haikara Nisshintei. This serves traditional Chinese dishes with a Japanese twist. Other popular restaurants in the town of Hakone include Osone Izakaya, Suzuka and Hatsuhana Soba Honten. These spots all serve delicious Japanese food.
While in Hakone, make sure to try one of the famous black eggs. You can get these from Owakudani.
Is Hakone worth visiting?
Absolutely! Hakone really is a must-visit on any trip to Japan. It’s the perfect day trip from Tokyo, but is also an ideal spot to slow down and relax.
Hakone remains one of my favourite places in Japan. Even though it’s popular, the crowds don’t seem too overwhelming. If you’re staying overnight, you’ll find the crowds deplete by dinner time. Hakone at night is a completely different experience.
Its beautiful serene setting makes it the perfect getaway from Tokyo and an absolute must on your Japan itinerary.
Related read: 16 Things to Know About Solo Travel in Japan
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