Chile’s Atacama Desert is home to spectacular scenery, mighty volcanoes, incredible lagoons and some of the clearest skies in the world. Despite being the driest non-polar region on earth, the Atacama Desert is filled with exciting things to do and is an absolute must when visiting Chile.
I had dreamed of visiting the Atacama Desert for years! Located in Northern Chile, this vast area covers a whopping 105,000 km². Despite its huge size, only small parts of the desert are open to visitors.
The best place to stay when visiting the Atacama Desert is the small town of San Pedro de Atacama. This beautiful town is surrounded by incredible scenery and is close to all the best things to see and do in the area. It’s also a great place to slow down and relax a little.
I spent a whole week in San Pedro de Atacama, so I had plenty of time to explore the town and get a feel for this stunning spot. In this guide, I’ve shared everything you need to know about visiting the Atacama desert, including where to stay, how to get there and the best way to get around.
How to get to San Pedro de Atacama
By plane
The easiest way to reach the Atacama Desert is to fly to the nearby city of Calama which is home to the nearest airport. There are regular direct flights between Santiago and Calama. Once you arrive in Calama, you can collect your rental car or jump on a shuttle bus to San Pedro de Atacama. The drive takes just over an hour.
You can book a shuttle in advance here, but it seemed easy enough to book at the airport (and a little cheaper).
Tip: Calama is known to be dangerous, and it’s not recommended that you spend any time there. It’s common for rental agencies to advise against you taking the car into the city, or even refuse to insure you if you do.
By bus
It’s possible to take a (very long) bus from Santiago to San Pedro de Atacama. The bus to Calama takes 21 hours (ouch), and from here, you can jump on a bus to San Pedro de Atacama. To break the journey up, consider spending a night in La Serena.
If you’re coming from further north or Peru, there is a daily bus between Arica and San Pedro de Atacama.
From Argentina or Bolivia
The easiest way to reach San Pedro de Atacama from Argentina is to catch the daily bus from Salta. This bus route is one of the most beautiful in the world. I was meant to head to Salta after San Pedro, but my plans changed for various reasons.
For those planning to travel from Bolivia (or to Bolivia), there is a bus between Uyuni and San Pedro. However, I’d highly recommend doing a multi-day Salt Flats tour. Most of these tours are two days and three nights and take you on an adventure across the incredible landscape.
You can easily book your Salt Flats Tour once you arrive in Uyuni or San Pedro, but I highly recommend La Torre Tours if you want to book in advance. Andes Salt Expeditions is another highly recommended agency.
I highly recommend using Bus Bud to book bus tickets around South America.
How long to spend in San Pedro de Atacama
Most visitors spend four or five days exploring the Atacama Desert. This is the perfect amount of time to see the highlights, acclimatise to the high altitude, and rest between tours (the day tours can be tiring).
I spent a week in San Pedro de Atacama which was enough time. If I’m honest, it was too much time. I had a couple of days completely free, and while it was nice to rest and enjoy the town, I didn’t need to spend that much time there.
Another thing to consider is where you are going before or after San Pedro. If you plan to do the Uyuni Salt Flats, you likely won’t need to spend as much time in San Pedro. While the Atacama Desert is incredible, so is the Uyuni Salt Flats area.
Both spots boast incredible landscapes but also have similar features. For example, El Tatio Geysers is one of the most popular things to do in Atacama. However, you also typically see Geysers during the salt flats tour. They might not be quite as impressive, but they’re still pretty cool!
Likewise, during a multi-day Salt Flats tour, you can see flamingoes, visit colourful lagoons, and relax in hot springs, so you might feel there’s no need to do these activities in San Pedro.
Of course, it’s entirely a personal choice about how much you want to see. If you want to see everything the Atacama Desert has to offer, then plan to spend at least four or five days in San Pedro. However, if I’m being completely honest, I don’t think you need to spend too much time in San Pedro if you’re also visiting the Salt Flats.
It’s worth checking with your Salt Flats tour operator about where you visit during the tour. Most tours between Uyuni and San Pedro cover the Geysers, several lagoons and the hot springs, but it’s better to double-check this in advance.
Best time of year to visit San Pedro de Atacama
The great news is that the Atacama Desert can be visited all year round. However, despite being the driest place on earth, it does experience a rainy season between January and March. This time of year can be unpredictable, and activities are often cancelled due to poor road conditions or cloudy skies. I’d avoid this time of year if you can.
Besides the rainy season, there’s no bad time to visit the Atacama Desert. The winter months of July to September are generally known to have the best stargazing opportunities. This is also the dry season, and clear skies are more or less (almost) guaranteed. The temperatures also tend to be milder, making exploring more bearable (but it does get cold at night). The winter months are also known as the low season, so there will be fewer crowds.
November through January are the busiest months in San Pedro de Atacama, and this is considered the high season. The days are hot and there’s lots going on. However, you might find prices to be higher and some of the attractions to be very crowded.
Atacama Desert: rent a car or join tours?
Ah, the big question. Should you rent a car in the Atacama Desert? Well… yes and no.
Hiring a car in the Atacama Desert is the best way to see the area. You’ll be able to explore at your own pace and have complete freedom. It’s also easier to avoid the crowds when you hire a car. Most tours leave for the same attractions at the same time of day, so you can try to avoid these times.
However, as with most things, there’s a catch! Many of the roads in the Atacama Desert are rocky, sandy and filled with potholes. Driving in the Atacama Desert is not for the faint of heart. Granted, you’ll still be able to access most places, but only if you’re a confident driver.
I was desperate to hire a car in the Atacama Desert, but it was too expensive, especially as I was alone. I was also a little nervous about driving along the dirt paths by myself. I heard stories at my hostel about flat tyres, getting stuck in the sand, and getting lost along sandy roads. So, in the end, I feel like I made the right decision.
I did spend one day in a car after meeting some people at the hostel, and it was a great day. But I don’t think it was essential.
The good news is that you can still see the highlights of the Atacama Desert without hiring a car. There are affordable day tours to all the best places in the area. I don’t think you will miss out by not hiring a car. Sure, you’re tied to day tours and following an itinerary, but the guides know all the best spots, and you can relax and not worry about driving.
On one tour, a girl in my group asked to pull over for photos twice, and the guides had no issue doing so. All of the tours I joined also had English-speaking guides.
The cost will depend on your situation. I added up the cost of hiring a car; with insurance and petrol, it would have been more expensive than joining tours. Of course, if you’re travelling with others, you can split the cost of a car rental.
It’s worth noting that most attractions have an entrance fee. This is (usually) included in the cost of a tour, but you’ll need to factor in these additional costs if you plan to rent a car.
If you plan to rent a car, I suggest using Rental Cars. I always tend to find the cheapest car rental deals here. Most car rental companies here are based in Calama but there are a few options in San Pedro. If you walk down the main street, you’ll see signs advertising car rentals.
Accommodation in San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro de Atacama’s popularity means it has a range of accommodations on offer. From luxury hotels with pools to hostels, there is something for all budgets.
Best hostels in San Pedro de Atacama
If you’re looking for a good hostel in San Pedro, I can’t recommend Casa Voyage enough. I spent a whole week here, and it’s one of my favourite hostels. The dorm rooms have big lockers and curtains on the bed (it’s the small things), the staff are very friendly and helpful, and the hostel has a social atmosphere. The WiFi worked well, and there was also hot water for showers (a rarity in San Pedro de Atacama).
Other popular hostels in San Pedro include Hostal Mamatierra and Anka Hostel.
Mid-range hotels
Hostal Desert is a great mid-range option for those looking for more privacy than a hostel but still wanting to budget. It also includes a tasty breakfast.
Hostal Likancabur is another highly rated option for those on a budget.
Luxury hotels
If you’re after a bit of luxury in the desert, San Pedro has a range of fancy hotels. Our Habitats is a popular hotel with gorgeous rooms and an incredible swimming pool to cool down on those hot summer days. It’s a little bit out of town, but you have everything you need on-site.
Hotel Pascual Andino is another fantastic option, and it is much closer to the town.
Budget for the Atacama Desert
Chile isn’t known to be the cheapest destination in South America, and San Pedro de Atacama is no exception. If you’re backpacking South America and have just come from Peru and/or Bolivia, you’ll likely get a bit of a shock regarding the prices.
In my one week in the Atacama Desert, I spent nearly $400. This included a week in a dorm room, food and drinks, day tours, and transport. Granted, I could have done it cheaper. I didn’t need to stay for a week, I didn’t need to do as many tours as I did, and I bought a coffee most days. However, San Pedro isn’t the cheapest of places.
If you’re looking to visit the Atacama Desert on a budget, the best thing to do is limit the day tours. For most people, the tours are the most expensive part of the trip. As I said above, you don’t need to visit every area, especially if you’re coming from the Uyuni Salt Flats (or planning to see them after).
The tours generally range between $25 and $100, depending on which ones you choose.
Eating out in San Pedro can also be expensive. Most main meals cost around $15, and even a coffee will cost you $4. Thankfully, there are a couple of supermarkets and markets in the town that sell fresh produce. This means it’s easy to prepare your own food. Many of the tours also include breakfast and/or lunch.
Altitude sickness in San Pedro de Atacama
San Pedro de Atacama lies at 2,450 metres above sea level. While this is manageable for most people, altitude sickness is still possible. On my first day in the town, I felt a bit breathless when walking around, but I soon got used to it.
Attractions such as Piedras Rojas (Red Rocks) and El Tatio are both at high elevations, reaching up to around 4,200 metres. They’re only day trips, so they tend to be manageable, but it’s not uncommon for visitors to experience headaches, breathlessness, and dizziness.
Try to spend some time in San Pedro de Atacama before visiting the places at even higher elevations. This will give your body time to get used to the altitude.
Other tips for visiting San Pedro de Atacama
- Avoid the tap water: There is mixed information about whether the tap water in San Pedro de Atacama is safe to drink. Personally, I avoided the tap water. While it’s normally clean, it has a very high mineral content and can easily upset stomachs.
- Carry cash: It’s important to have some cash when visiting the Atacama Desert. While more places are starting to accept card payments, a hefty fee is often attached. You’ll also need some money for smaller restaurants and for paying entrance fees to the attractions which are cash only.
- Book the tours when you’re in San Pedro: You can book your San Pedro tours online in advance. However, this tends to be more expensive and I found the tours to be cheaper in the town. Of course, sometimes it’s better to have everything booked in advance, especially in the high season.
- Verify your tour company: The main street of San Pedro de Atacama is lined with tour operators selling day tours to all attractions. Some places offer deals that seem too good to be true, but it’s a sensible idea to check the quality of the tour companies in advance. Not all tour companies have the same inclusions or quality of service. You can check reviews on Google or speak to your accommodation. My hostel matched the prices I found in town, providing they were of the same quality.
- Take snacks on the day trips: Most day trips include a meal or snack, but I suggest taking additional snacks. The tours can be long and tiring, and food is often quite limited.
- Expect to get dirty: Being in the middle of the desert, it’s safe to say you can expect to get dirty on your trip. One tiny bit of wind will blow sand into your face and cover your clothes. Make sure to wear clothes that you don’t mind getting dirty.
- Pace yourself: With so much to see, extreme weather and high altitude, exploring the Atacama Desert can take its toll on your body. Try to schedule time to rest between all of the exploring.
- Moisturise: Atacama is the driest place on earth, and boy, does your body feel it. Make sure to wear plenty of moisturiser to avoid being uncomfortable.
- Suncream and more suncream: The sun in the Atacama Desert is STRONG. Even in the winter, the sun can burn you in a matter of minutes. Be sure to wear plenty of SPF and take it with you on all the day trips. It’s also a sensible idea to always carry plenty of water.
Where to eat in San Pedro de Atacama
Despite being a tourist hot spot, I wouldn’t say San Pedro is exactly known for its food. Having said that, there are still plenty of cafes and restaurants to try. Here are a few of my favourites.
It’s no secret that Chile loves its coffee and pastries, and there is certainly no shortage in the desert. My favourite bakery was a French bakery called Franchuteria. The bakery sells fresh bread, croissants, and sandwiches. The raspberry and white chocolate croissant is literally the best croissant I’ve ever had.
If you’re after an incredible empanada or cake, try Emporio Andino. It’s a busy spot but well worth the wait for a table. Roots is another excellent spot to grab lunch. It has a range of food on offer and an extensive vegetarian menu.
One of my favourite restaurants in the town is Incas, a Peruvian restaurant serving traditional dishes. It’s reasonably priced, and the food is incredible. Adobe is a popular Chilean restaurant. I didn’t eat here, but others at the hostel said it was delicious.
Suggested itinerary for the Atacama Desert
Before finalising your itinerary, read my post on the best things to do in the Atacama Desert. Here, I’ve shared all the best things to do in the Atacama Desert with honest thoughts on what’s worth it.
When building your Atacama Desert itinerary, it’s important to consider the altitude. Spots such as Piedras Rojas and El Tatio take you well above 4,000 meters. It’s recommended to spend a day or two in San Pedro de Atacama first to help you acclimatise.
Below, I’ve shared a suggested four-day itinerary featuring the best things to do in the Atacama Desert. This itinerary is mostly based on joining day tours and can be changed to suit your preferences and schedule, but try to keep El Tatio and Piedras Rojas towards the end.
Day One
- Arrive in San Pedro de Atacama
- Explore the town and visit the markets
- In the evening, go stargazing (if there’s a full moon, the tours won’t be operating)
Day two
- In the morning, cycle to Garganta del Diablo (The Devil’s Throat) to see the unique rock formations
- In the afternoon, visit Laguna Cejar or the Puritama Hot Springs
- Consider a stargazing tour if you didn’t go the night before
Day three
- Spend the whole day on a guided tour of Piedras Rojas. Choose a tour that also includes the Laguna Chaxa
Day four
- In the morning, take an early morning tour to El Tatio Geysers
- In the afternoon, join a tour to either Valle de La Luna (Valley of the Moon) or Vallecito for sunset (Vallecito is my personal preference, it’s such a beautiful landscape)
Other things to do in San Pedro de Atacama
I’ve written an article on the best things to do in Atacama, but here’s a quick overview for those planning your itinerary in a rush.
- Visit the Meteorite Museum: If you’re looking for an evening activity or an alternative to stargazing, consider a trip to the Meteorite Museum, where you can see (and touch) actual meteorites. It’s a great option if your stargazing tour is cancelled due to weather or a full moon.
- Go sandboarding: If you want to explore your adventurous side, consider sandboarding on the sand dunes. Most tours take you to Valle de La Muerte (Death Valley).
- Visit Rainbow Mountain: Did you know the Atacama desert has its own Rainbow Mountain? You can visit it on a half-day morning tour.
- Visit Salar de Atacama: If you’re not planning to visit Salar de Uyuni, consider a trip to Atacama’s very own salt flats. They are the largest salt flats in Chile.
- Relax in the Purilibre Thermal Springs: These hot springs aren’t as well known as the Puritama Hot Springs. They’re free to enter, and you’ll need to do a short hike to reach them. There are no facilities, which makes it a much wilder experience.
- Climb a volcano: If you want a challenge, consider joining a tour to hike one of the nearby volcanoes. It’s possible to hike both the Cerro Toco and the Licancabur volcanoes, with Cerro Toco being the easiest of the two. You’ll need a guide for the hikes, and it can be quite expensive.
Final thoughts: is visiting San Pedro de Atacama worth it?
If you want to explore an area filled with natural wonders and unique landscapes like nowhere else on earth then yes, visiting Atacama is well worth it.
I’ve been fortunate enough to see a lot of this world, and the stunning landscapes of the Atacama Desert still blew me away. It really is stunning.
I will say that San Pedro de Atacama is a very touristy town. As most people opt to join day tours, many attractions can feel a little commercial. However, this is just part of visiting the Atacama Desert and all you can do is embrace it. If you enjoy getting off the beaten path and avoiding the crowds, San Pedro probably isn’t the right place for you.
Another thing to consider is whether you plan to visit Salar de Uyuni. Personally, I don’t think you need to spend too much time in Atacama if you’re also visiting the Uyuni Salt Flats on a multi-day tour. The landscapes tend to be very similar, but Uyuni is much wilder and more remote. It’s one of the best things I’ve ever done!
Having said that, spending time exploring the Atacama Desert is still well worth it. It’s home to some incredible landscapes that can only be seen there. The Atacama Desert also has some of the clearest skies in the world, which only adds to the magic of the area.
