Honestly, I wasn’t expecting to like La Paz. I’m not the biggest fan of cities, especially ones that are chaotic, polluted, and overcrowded. But there is something special about La Paz, so much so that it has become my favourite city in South America.
La Paz is the world’s highest city at over 3,600 metres (11,800 feet) above sea level. It’s also one of two capital cities in Bolivia (alongside Sucre). La Paz is the administrative capital, while Sucre is the constitutional capital (although many locals in both cities claim their city to be the only capital).
The city is home to a mix of historical landmarks and cultural hubs, and it’s surrounded by the incredible Andes Mountains and stunning landscapes. It really is such a unique city. I loved the city so much that I spent a whole week there. This gave me plenty of time to explore the city and make the most of the various day trips to the surrounding area.
While one day in La Paz isn’t enough time to see everything, it’s enough to get a true feel for the city and see what makes it so special and unique. Below, I’ve shared how to spend the perfect day in La Paz, especially for those looking to take it slowly and acclimatise to the high altitude.
Altitude sickness in La Paz
At around 3,600 metres (11,800 feet) above sea level, La Paz is one of the highest cities in the world. The high altitude can make everyday things seem more challenging. Even climbing up a small flight of stairs, rolling over in bed, or walking on flat ground can take your breath away.
As a quick summary, the higher the altitude, the less oxygen there is. This means your body has to work harder to get sufficient oxygen and learn to cope with lower oxygen levels. While many people can adapt to this, it’s common to suffer symptoms such as breathlessness, nausea and headaches. It can also lead to more severe and potentially life-threatening complications such as high altitude cerebral edema (HACE).
If you arrive in La Paz overland from Peru or other places in Bolivia, you’ll likely be accustomed to the high altitude. This means you probably won’t notice the effects as much and don’t need to worry too much about acclimatising before doing any activities.
However, for many people, La Paz is often the first stop on their trip to Bolivia. With a major international airport connecting the country to North America and Europe, you might arrive in La Paz directly from sea level. If this is the case, it’s important to take the high altitude seriously. In my experience, it’s possible to feel fine initially, but the effects can catch up with you.
I’m not a medical expert, but I have travelled extensively at high altitude. Here are a few tips which have helped me in the past:
- Take it slowly: The worst thing you can do when acclimatising is push yourself too hard and too quickly. Give your body time to adjust, and don’t physically exert yourself too soon. During your first day or two at high altitude, stick to resting and exploring at a slow pace.
- Get plenty of rest: Many official medical experts suggest that rest can help with the effects of high altitudes.
- Stay hydrated: Drink plenty of water and stay hydrated. I often take electrolytes when I first go to a high altitude.
- Don’t drink alcohol: Try to avoid alcohol when you first arrive at altitude. Some studies show that alcohol has much more of an effect on the body at higher elevations. It can also dehydrate you, which is not what your body needs when trying to adjust.
- Increase altitude gradually: Allow your body time to get used to the altitude before going even higher. For example, don’t rush to do a high-altitude hike as soon as you land in La Paz. Give your body time to get used to the current altitude before going even higher. My one day in La Paz itinerary is perfect for getting used to the high elevations.
- Consider Coca tea: Coca tea is the local remedy for altitude sickness in Peru and Bolivia. On hikes, guides will often hand out coca leaves to chew. However, tea is the most common form, and it’s delicious!
- Take medication: Medication is available for those who are very concerned about the altitude. You can buy it over the counter in Bolivia, but I suggest speaking to your doctor about it. There is a lot of mixed information about the best way to take it, and it has some strong side effects.
- See a doctor: If you don’t feel well, see a doctor immediately. Altitude sickness isn’t something to mess around with.
Disclaimer: I’m not a medical expert; the tips above are based on my own experience. For further advice, consider speaking to your doctor or checking an official medical website.
Is one day in La Paz enough?
If you were to ask me how long to spend in La Paz, I’d say three days is the ideal amount of time. Three days give you enough time to explore the city, make the most of day trips to the surrounding areas (there are some epic hikes close to La Paz), or see the city more in-depth.
Having said that, one day is still enough time to see the city’s main highlights, including the historic centre, The Witches Market, and ride the Mi Teleferico. So, if you’re not bothered about exploring the surrounding area, one day is enough time to see the city itself.
One thing to consider is the altitude. If La Paz is your first stop at high altitude, it’s important to factor in time to adjust and get used to the high elevation. You’ll likely need a day or two to acclimatise before taking on any big activities or going to even higher altitudes such as Salar de Uyuni (most of the three-day tours reach altitudes of up to 5,000 metres).
My itinerary below allows you to explore the city without going up too much higher in elevation (aside from El Alto).
The perfect day in La Paz
Morning (Walking tour of city center)
I recommend spending the morning exploring the city’s historical side and seeing the main highlights. The best way to do this is to join a free walking tour around La Paz. I’m all for exploring independently, but walking tours are a fantastic way to learn more about a city and the importance of certain landmarks.
Red Cap Walking Tours are one of the most popular options, and they’re fantastic. The tour operates on a tip-based service, so you tip your guide at the end. I’m not always the biggest fan of walking tours, but this one was brilliant.
If you’d like something more personal and customised, I’d suggest booking this private tour with a local. You can customise the tour to meet any requirements and have the guide to yourself.
For those who prefer to explore alone, La Paz is a great city to explore independently. If you’d like to do a self-guided walking tour, here are a few unmissable stops:
San Pedro Prison
Our free walking tour began in the Square next to the prison, a great spot to also start your self-guided adventure. This is one of the world’s most famous prisons (but not necessarily for the right reasons). The prisoners here have to work to fund their stay (crazy, right?!). It looks like a normal building from the outside, but inside, there’s an entire community running the prison.
It used to be possible to tour the prison. However, due to safety reasons, it’s no longer permitted.
Rodriguez Market
A few blocks away is the vibrant Rodriquez Market. Our guide explained that Bolivia doesn’t have supermarkets in the same way as other countries. Instead, locals get everything they need from the markets.
Most market stalls seemed to be run by Cholitas (local Indigenous women), who sold everything from fresh fruit and vegetables to toiletries and electrical supplies.
The Witches Market
One of the most popular places in La Paz is The Witches Market (known as Mercado de Las Brujas in Spanish). I had heard a lot about the market and was expecting it to be tucked away down some hidden alleyway, but it’s actually on one of the main streets, making it easy to find.
The eerie market is great for learning more about Bolivian culture and traditions. You’ll find all sorts of potions, talismans and even animal fetuses being sold here. Our guide explained that the Witch Doctors sell the fetuses for offerings to Pachamama, or Mother Earth.
It has become a tourist attraction recently, but it’s well worth visiting.
The San Francisco Church
Just down the road from the Witches Market is the San Francisco Church (Basilica de San Francisco), another great spot on your tour of La Paz.
This Catholic church was built in 1548 (although much of it has been rebuilt since then) and is an important place of worship for the locals. You can go inside the church, but you’re not allowed to take photos.
The church is also impressive from the outside. The beautiful stone structure has many carvings relating to indigenous themes, such as local birds, snakes, and dragons.
Plaza Murillo
The final stop on this self-guided walking tour is Plaza Murillo. This central plaza is home to the Presidential Palace and also the Cathedral. The square holds so much Bolivian history and is a beautiful area to walk around. If you go at the right time, you can also see the change of guard for the political buildings.
Visit a museum
If you want to cram in as much as possible, you could also consider visiting one of the many museums.
One of the most famous museums in La Paz is the National Art Museum (Museo Nacional de Arte), which holds a collection of paintings relating to Bolivia’s past. The museum has a particular focus on colonial art and spans various periods.
Another popular museum is the Museum of Natural History (Museo de Historia Natural), a fantastic spot to learn about the rich history of biodiversity in Bolivia (including dinosaur fossils – Bolivia has lots of history regarding dinosaurs).
Afternoon (Mi Teleférico and El Alto)
After having lunch, I recommend spending the afternoon riding the unique public transport system in La Paz: Mi Teleférico. With eleven different lines, this network of cable cars is one of the largest in the world and connects all corners of this gigantic city.
You could spend hours riding around the cable cars, stopping in local neighbourhoods and looking for the best views. But with just one day in the city, it’s best to have a bit of a plan.
I suggest starting in the city centre and doing a loop around the city. Start by taking the Blue Line (Azul) to Del Liberator. You can then connect to the Yellow Line (Amarilla) to Mirador, a beautiful city viewpoint. You need to leave the station and walk down the steps for the best views. Honestly, the views riding up to this spot were incredible; they show the true scale of the city.
After admiring the views, you can take the Silver Line (Plateada) to 16 de Julio, which also has some great viewpoints. If you search for ‘mirador’ on Google, it should show you one that is about a ten-minute walk away. This is one of the highest points of the Mi Teleferico system and is the jump-off spot if you want to explore the El Alto area, including the El Alto Market.
El Alto Market is the biggest in La Paz, home to pretty much everything you can think of buying at a market. If you do choose to explore the area, just be aware it does have a bit of a reputation for being dangerous. One of my friends I met travelling had her phone stolen here. While Bolivia is generally a safe country, it’s important to be aware of common scams and places to avoid.
After spending time in El Alto, you can continue in a loop around the Mi Teleferico system. I suggest taking the Red Line (Roja) connection. After one stop, you’ll arrive at the stop for the General Cemetery of La Paz (Cementerio General).
This interesting cemetery is home to many notable people from Bolivia’s history and is also filled with colourful murals dedicated to the dead. If you have the time, I recommend a stop here. This tour includes a stop at the cemetery.
After this, you can ride to the end of the Orange Line (Naranja), switch to the White Line (Blanca), and end your tour of the city from above where you started.
As of 2024, each ride on the Mi Teleférico costs just 3 Bolivanos ($0.40). Just be aware that you’ll have to pay again each time you switch lines. You can buy a card at most stations and top it up with however much you need. It’s a really easy system to use and a great way to see the city from a different perspective.
Evening (Wrestling or food tour)
If you still have some energy, there are several ways to spend your evening in La Paz.
One of the most unique things to do is watch a Cholitas Wrestling Match. Cholitas is the name given to women of indigenous descent. You’ll undoubtedly see lots of Cholitas at the markets and around La Paz, but watching them wrestle is a whole other experience. If you’re keen to watch a match, you’ll need to be in La Paz on a Sunday or Thursday. You can book online here.
Another option is to try a food tour of La Paz. Bolivia isn’t exactly known for its food, but I found it surprisingly delicious. This popular tour allows you to try street food and visit local restaurants.
Other things to do in La Paz
If you have more than one day in La Paz, here are a few other activities to consider.
Hike Pico Austria
Despite being a big and busy city, La Paz is surrounded by some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve ever seen. One of the best ways to experience the mountains is by taking on one of the many incredible hikes in the area.
If you’re up for a challenge, one of the best day hikes near La Paz is Pico Austria. This epic day hike takes trekkers a whopping 5,320 metres (17,454 feet) above sea level. The hike boasts magnificent scenery, including beautiful lagoons, snow-capped mountains, spectacular glaciers and panoramic views of the Cordillera Real.
It’s worth noting this is a tough hike and not for beginners. Altitude aside, it’s very steep and takes six to eight hours to complete. However, it’s one of the best things I did on my trip to Bolivia. Ensure you give yourself a few days to acclimatise in La Paz beforehand.
I’d recommend joining a day tour to hike Pico Austria. I went with Southreks, who were incredible. There’s also the option to book online in advance, but this can be a bit more expensive.
Note: The best time to hike Pico Austria is in the winter months between April and October. Although it’s colder, hiking conditions and weather are generally more favourable.
Visit Laguna Esmeralda
If you want something easier than Pico Austria, consider a day trip to Laguna Esmerelda (Charquini). While the hike still takes you above 5,000 metres, it’s much easier and only takes about an hour each way.
Laguna Esmeralda is seriously one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever been to, and it’s comparable to the likes of Humantay Lake and Laguna 69 in Peru. Think of a frozen turquoise lake surrounded by glaciers and snow-capped mountains; that’s Laguna Esmeralda.
The easiest way to visit Laguna Esmeralda is to book a day tour from La Paz. While you can visit independently, it’s a long drive and the cost of hiring a driver isn’t much different to a tour. You can book once you arrive in La Paz, or book online in advance here.
Cycle the Death Road
One of the most popular things to do in La Paz is to cycle the infamous Death Road. This steep road is known for its sheer drops, nailbiting turns and narrow passways. Despite claiming many lives over the years, it’s possible to experience the world’s most dangerous road by mountain bike.
If you’re up for the challenge, I’d recommend booking with a reputable company to ensure the quality of the bikes. This tour is very highly rated.
I heard stories of broken brakes, flat tyres and guides that offered no help whatsoever. Although Death Road has improved in safety in recent years, it’s still very dangerous and has claimed the lives of tourists. If you want the best experience, research the company in advance and check their safety standards.
Visit Valle de La Luna / Valley of the Moon
La Paz has its own “Moon Valley,” a labyrinth of white rock formations overlooking the city. If you have a spare morning or afternoon, it’s certainly worth a trip.
The valley is only a 20-minute drive from the city, and you can reach it without joining a tour by getting in a taxi or using public transport.
It’s also possible to join a tour which also includes the Witches Market.
Visit Isla del Sol
Another popular day trip from La Paz is to the beautiful Isla del Sol, which is found on the Bolivian side of Lake Titicaca. This island is important in Inca mythology and is surrounded by incredible scenery.
To visit Lake Titicaca in a single day, you’ll need to join a day tour from La Paz. Bolivia Hop is a popular option that includes hotel pick-up, all your transport, and time in Copacabana.
Personally, I think Isla del Sol is worth WAY more than a day trip. You’ll only have an hour or so on the island, which isn’t nearly enough time to see what it has to offer. If you can, I recommend spending at least one or two nights on the island (or in Copacabana).
Climb Huayna Potosi
Those looking for the ultimate challenge could consider climbing Huayna Potosi. This epic mountain sits at 6,088 metres (19,974 feet) above sea level, and it’s possible to climb to the summit (with little to no experience).
The mountain is considered one of the easiest mountains in the world for beginner climbers. Even so, it’s not something to take lightly. While it might be considered “easy” compared to the likes of Mount Everest, it still involves walking across glaciers, climbing ice walls, walking along narrow ridges and coping with extremely high altitude.
The climb will take three days (two nights), so you’ll need to build in enough days in La Paz to prepare and acclimatise beforehand.
I’ve spoken more about climbing Huayna Potosi and other activities in La Paz in my post on the best things to do in Bolivia.
Best accommodation in La Paz
Bolivia is one of the cheapest countries in South America, which means there are many affordable accommodations available.
Budget
For those on a budget, there are several hostels in La Paz. I stayed in a few different hostels so I could work out which is the best. Here are the ones worth looking at:
- Iskay Boutique Hostel: This was my favourite hostel in La Paz. It’s right by the Witches Market, it’s affordable, and the dorm rooms were brilliant. There are also private rooms for those wanting a bit more privacy. The only downside is that it’s not the most social of places.
- Selina La Paz: Arguably one of the ‘nicest’ hostels, it’s certainly fancier than the others on this list. The WiFi was great (a rarity in Bolivia), it’s very social, and it has a great bar downstairs. However, it’s not in the best location and is more expensive.
- Anata Hostel: If you want a basic and cheap hostel, Anata is the answer. It’s budget-friendly, social and in a good location. While it’s not the most luxurious, it’s clean and has everything you need. There are also affordable private rooms.
- Wake Up Hostel: Wake Up is another basic yet great hostel. Similar to Anata, it’s affordable, social, and in a great location.
- Wild Rover: Have you even backpacked in South America if you’ve not experienced at least one Wild Rover? The chain of hostels is known for its wild parties, however, the one in La Paz seems to be on the ‘calmer’ side. Even so, I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re happy with music being blasted all night.
Mid-range
If you prefer to avoid hostels, La Paz has a great range of hotels and guesthouses around the city.
- Patio de Piedra: This hotel is in the heart of the historic city centre and boasts spacious rooms in a classic building. It’s certainly on the more expensive side, but it’s highly rated and a popular choice.
- Qantu Hotel: This hotel is in a great location, right by the Witches Market and surrounded by restaurants and bars. It’s not overly expensive and offers all the basics.
- La Casona Hotel: If you want real luxury (at least by Bolivia’s standards), consider La Casona. The spacious rooms feel more modern than other places on this list, and there’s a beautiful roof terrace.
- Hostal Iskanwaya Hotel: This is an excellent budget option. It offers rooms with private and shared bathrooms.
Where to eat
La Paz is filled with local and international restaurants and cafes. There’s no shortage of variety, and most of the food is delicious. I spent a whole week trying different places, so I’ve put them in a list for you below.
Here are some of the best places to eat in La Paz.
- Cafe del Mundo: This was one of my favourite places to eat in La Paz. It has everything from traditional Bolivian food to burgers and falafel. It’s great for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Just be aware it can get very busy.
- Bolivian Green Kitchen: This is a great lunch or dinner option for vegetarians! Their avocado on toast was delicious.
- The Witches Pub: I didn’t try the food here, but I can say their hot chocolate is literally THE BEST I have ever had. They also serve coffee and gastro-pub style food.
- The Carrot Tree: If you want incredible pancakes, Mexican food or a simple sandwich, look no further than the Carrot Tree. The food here is delicious and the portions are HUGE.
- Yati Restaurant: This is the place to go if you’re craving a burger! They also do incredible vegetarian burgers.
- Angelo Colonial: This is a fantastic spot to try fresh trout from Lake Titicaca. It’s a bit fancier than other places I’ve mentioned, but it’s a great place to eat.
- Curry House: Indian food probably isn’t the first place that springs to mind when people think of La Paz, but the food here was delicious.
- Pizzeria Bella Ciao: This is some of the best pizza I had in South America. Just be prepared to queue for a table.
- The English Pub: Bangers and Mash? A fry-up breakfast? A roast dinner? If you need your British food fix, this is a good option.
- Altramuz: One of the best plant-based restaurants I’ve ever eaten at. Their homemade bean chilli was sensational!
Safety in La Paz
One of my biggest worries about visiting La Paz was safety. While I had found Bolivia relatively safe overall, I had heard mixed stories about La Paz. However, it turned out to be the same as most major cities in the world.
Crime does happen, and petty crimes are prevalent in La Paz. However, I felt no less safe than cities such as London or New York. Here are a few tips for staying safe in La Paz:
- Don’t walk alone at night
- Check the area you’re visiting in advance (El Alto is known to be quite dangerous at night)
- Check for scams
- Keep your valuables safe
- Don’t walk with your phone out
- Trust your gut
One common scam (which tends to occur in the markets) is for locals to throw mud at tourists. They rush over to apologise but steal what they can as they brush the dirt off. This happened to a friend of mine.
Another scam involves fake police officers asking for your passport. If you can provide it, they normally demand money to get it back. If you don’t have it, they’ll demand money as a fine. Never follow anyone, even if they’re claiming to be a police officer. The best thing to do is to ignore them or ask them to call your embassy.
The other thing to be aware of in La Paz is taxis. In the past, tourists have fallen victim to scammers pretending to be taxi drivers who rob them. Always check that your taxi has a taxi meter and the driver has an ID badge. Otherwise, you can use Uber (which is what I did).
In all fairness, these scams happen in most cities worldwide, so don’t let them put you off visiting La Paz. Just be vigilant, trust your gut and don’t take any risks.
Summary: Is La Paz worth visiting?
Most people see La Paz as a city they can quickly pass through at the beginning or end of their trip to Bolivia. Personally, I think it’s worth so, so much more than this. I wasn’t expecting to like La Paz as much as I did. I don’t love cities on the best of days, let alone one that’s this busy and chaotic. However, I LOVED La Paz. It’s turned into one of my favourite cities in South America.
Yes, it’s chaotic, the traffic is awful, and it can feel a bit overwhelming. However, it’s all part of the charm that makes this unique city so special.
I really would dedicate at least one full day to exploring the city of La Paz. There’s also so much to do on the outskirts, including epic hikes, cycling Death Road, and even climbing a mountain. I spent seven days in La Paz, and that was not nearly enough time to see what the city and wider area had to offer.
La Paz is absolutely worth adding to your Bolivia itinerary.
I hope you found this post useful. Enjoy your trip to Bolivia!