Buenos Aires is the capital city of Argentina, one of South America’s most diverse countries. Nicknamed the ‘Paris of Latin America’, Buenos Aires is rich in culture, filled with history, and boasts some of the most delicious food.
I visited Buenos Aires as part of my backpacking trip to Argentina. After spending two days there at the start of my trip, I fell in love and returned for another two weeks.
I honestly had no expectations for Buenos Aires. I assumed it would be like many other large cities. However, Buenos Aires has become one of my favourite cities in the world.
In this post, I’ve shared some helpful tips for planning your first trip to Buenos Aires. These include where to stay, the best time of year to visit, how long to spend in Buenos Aires, and the best things to do in the city.
While Buenos Aires is an amazing city, it isn’t always easy to navigate especially when it comes to withdrawing cash, getting around, and choosing where to stay.
How long to spend in Buenos Aires
There’s no shortage of amazing things to do in Buenos Aires. It’s one of those places where it’s easy to insert yourself into local life and spend your days café hopping and wandering the beautiful streets.
Most visitors only spend one day in Buenos Aires, using it as a stopover before heading to Patagonia or Ushuaia. I think Buenos Aires deserves more than this. I spent two weeks here and could have happily stayed longer.
At the absolute minimum, I suggest spending at least two days in Buenos Aires. This will give you enough time to visit the main historic sights and explore one or two neighbourhoods. It also gives you a chance to enjoy a Tango show or join a food tour.
If you want to see more of what this incredible city has to offer, plan to spend five days in Buenos Aires. The city is one of those unique places where no time spent there seems “too long”. There is always something else to see or do.
The best places to stay in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is a huge city with 48 different neighbourhoods known as ‘barrios’. Each of these barrios has its own distinct character and charm. Despite the city’s large size, there are only several areas where I’d suggest staying in Buenos Aires.
I’ve stayed in both Recoleta and Palermo, both fantastic and convenient areas.
Palermo
Palermo is one of the best places to stay in Buenos Aires, especially if you want to experience the famous nightlife. Palermo is filled with trendy cafes, bars, and restaurants that serve cuisine from all over the world. It might not be the most traditional of neighbourhoods, but it shows off the diversity of this beautiful city.
Tip: Palermo is divided into three sub-areas: Palermo Chico, Palermo Soho, and Palermo Hollywood. All three are close together, and each is a fantastic option, but Soho is my favourite.
You’ll need to take public transport or a taxi to reach the city centre from Palermo.
In my opinion, Palermo is the best place to stay in Buenos Aires, especially for backpackers and solo travellers. It’s quite far away from the major highlights of Buenos Aires, but it’s a safe spot with lots going on.
Recoleta
If you’d rather base yourself close to the historic sights, Recoleta is a good option. This is the best place to stay in Buenos Aires if you only have one or two days.
Recoleta is a traditional neighbourhood in Buenos Aires. It’s filled with classic cafes, bakeries, and Argentinian restaurants. It’s also much closer to the city centre than Palermo.
Many of the famous sights in Buenos Aires are walkable from here.
If you don’t have long in Buenos Aires and want to see the famous sights, staying in Recoleta is a fantastic option.
Microcentro (San Nicolás & Montserrat)
This is the area to stay if you want the historic and political buildings right on your doorstep. It’s another great spot for exploring the city on foot.
I have to say, this isn’t my favourite area of Buenos Aires. It’s busy, crowded and can be very noisy. If you want to be close to the main sights but in a quieter area, consider Recoleta.
The best time of year to visit Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is a year-round destination. There’s no “bad time” to visit as such, but there are certainly more favourable times in terms of the weather.
Being in the Southern Hemisphere, Buenos Aires experiences its warmest months between December and March. On a summer’s day, temperatures often reach about 30°C (86°F), but they have been known to go above this. In January 2024, temperatures almost reached 40°C (104°F). The humidity in the summer months can also be high.
During the winter months (June to October), temperatures tend to be more bearable. However, they remain above 15°C (60°F).
It can rain in Buenos Aires throughout the year, but December to March is typically the “rainy season”. I visited in February and March which see the most rain. There were a few rainy days including one huge storm, but it was nothing different to the likes of London or New York.
If you want to avoid the worst of the heat and big crowds, consider visiting between April and November.
How to get from Buenos Aires airport to the city
There are two main airports in Buenos Aires: Ezeiza (EZE) and Jorge Newbery Airfield (AEP). International flights land at EZE, which is the larger of the two.
EZE airport is quite a way out of the city. It normally takes anywhere between 40 minutes and an hour to get into the city from this airport (depending on where you are staying). AEP is much closer, especially if you’re staying in the Palermo area.
By taxi or private transfer
The easiest way to get into the city from either EZE or AEP airport is to take a taxi or Uber. A taxi from EZE airport into the city normally costs around 20 USD. However, tourists often fall victim to taxi scams, with drivers charging tourists a lot more money than they should.
Uber is a safer option as you see the price when booking the taxi and can pay through the app. This means the driver can’t overcharge you.
If you’re not a fan of Uber, I would recommend booking a taxi through your hotel or hostel. This is what I did on my backpacking trip to Argentina. The hostel confirmed the price with me and the driver so I knew I couldn’t be scammed.
The other option is to book a private transfer through Viator. This is more expensive but is the most popular option. A driver will be waiting for you at the airport holding a sign with your name on it. The taxi is pre-paid so you don’t need to worry about cash (other than tipping), WiFi to call an Uber or being scammed.
Shared shuttle
For those on a budget, there is the option to take a shared shuttle. This ends up being a similar price to an Uber, but if you want something arranged in advance then it’s a good compromise.
The only catch with shared shuttles is they can take a long time. You’ll be sharing the van with several others all going to different destinations. You often have to drive around to drop everyone off.
I like shared shuttles when arriving in a new country. They’re often budget-friendly and you don’t have to worry about ordering a taxi or working out public transport after a long flight.
Tip: a shuttle makes sense if you’re travelling alone. However, if there is more than one of you, it’s cheaper to get a private transfer.
Tienda Leon has a range of shuttles and coaches to set locations in the city, including the AEP airport.
Public transport
If you’re on a tight budget, you can take public transport from EZE airport. Linea 8 is the only bus that runs from the airport into the city. It can take up to two hours and is often crowded. I’ve also heard stories that sometimes drivers refuse to board passengers with a lot of luggage.
The only way to pay for buses in Buenos Aires is to buy a SUBE card. This is like an Oyster card in London or a Suica card in Japan. You load it with money and then tap when you board the bus.
In theory, the kiosks at the airport should sell these. However, when I was there, I couldn’t find anywhere that was obviously selling them.
Personally, unless you’re desperate, I’d try and avoid using the public bus from the airport. Theft is a common occurrence on public transport and when you’ve just got off a long flight, it’s one more thing to worry about.
How to get around Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires is a big city and many of the tourist attractions are spread out. Thankfully, getting around the city is relatively easy.
By foot
Exploring a new city on foot is a great way to experience somewhere and find hidden gems. Buenos Aires is one of those cities where you can easily find yourself doing a ridiculous number of steps per day.
Buenos Aires is filled with hidden gems including impressive buildings, cute cafes, and beautiful parks. I loved wandering around the streets without any specific plans.
Having said that, walking between neighbourhoods in Buenos Aires can be tricky. For example, walking between Palermo, Barrier Norte, and La Boca would involve hours of walking.
I’d suggest walking around neighbourhoods, but consider getting transport between different ones.
Tip: while Buenos Aires is generally a safe city for tourists, crimes such as pick-pocketing and phone snatching do happen. Don’t carry anything valuable and don’t walk around with your phone out.
By taxi or uber
Hailing a taxi or ordering an Uber is the best way to get around Buenos Aires. I prefer Uber as the price is set in advance, and it tends to be lower than a regular taxi.
By bus or subway
The best way to get around Buenos Aires is to use the bus (Colectivos) and subway (Subte) system.
I was surprised to learn that Buenos Aires has an extensive subway network connecting many major tourist attractions.
To use the bus or subway (Subte), you’ll need to buy a SUBE card. Busses and trains don’t take cash, so this is the only way to pay to use public transport in Buenos Aires. You can buy SUBE cards in most convenience stores around the city, as well as in most Subte stations.
I’d suggest downloading the Moovit app. This is like Google or City Mapper and helps you to get from A to B using Buenos Aires public transport.
Argentina’s economy is incredibly unstable so prices are subject to change. However, as of March 2024, it costs 125 ARS ($0.10 USD) for a one-way subway ticket (bargain!).
Tip: If you’re worried about safety, using the trains or busses during the day is normally trouble-free. The biggest risk is having your phone snatched, so try to keep this out of sight. Pick-pockets are also known to target tourists on trains and buses.
Withdrawing cash in Buenos Aires
While many places in Buenos Aires accept debit or credit cards, you might find it easier to pay in cash. The Argentinian economy is very unstable and paying with Argentinian Pesos (ARS) tends to provide the best exchange rate (depending on how you source the cash).
This is where things get complicated. Cash machines/ATMs in Argentina are not great. You can only withdraw a maximum of around 10,000-20,000 ARS (equivalent to about $10 – 20 USD) and there is often a hefty fee attached. The ATM at EZE airport would only let me withdraw $10 with an $8 USD fee attached. The exchange rate when doing this is also poor.
Tip: while many places will accept USD, this tends to have an awful exchange rate. Try and avoid paying in USD.
To put it simply – the best way to pay for things in Buenos Aires (and Argentina as a whole), is to use Western Union to withdraw cash. The worst way to pay for things is to use USD or a cash machine to withdraw ARS.
Using Western Union in Argentina
The best way to withdraw Argentinian Pesos is to use Western Union. This global bank offers the ‘Blue Dollar’ exchange rate, an exclusive exchange rate for tourists. This is normally 10-20% higher than the official exchange rate (and has even reached 30% in the past).
To withdraw money using Western Union in Argentina, you’ll need to download their official app. Once you’ve registered, you can send money to the bank. You’ll be asked to choose someone to “receive” the money. This can be you – you just need to have your passport ready. You don’t need to select a pick-up point, you just go to your nearest branch.
Once you’ve sent the money, the transaction will be verified (this can take a few minutes) and then it’s ready to collect. Your first transaction with Western Union is free, after this, there is a small fee.
Important note: I would recommend visiting your nearest Western Union before sending the money. Some smaller branches have limits on the amount you can withdraw and often run out of money. For example, in El Calafate, there is a small limit per person each day. Thankfully, Buenos Aires has several large branches which don’t normally have limits.
I know sending money to a random bank can be a scary prospect (I was terrified when I did my first withdrawal from Western Union), but it’s the best way to withdraw money in Argentina. Almost every traveller I met in the country had used Western Union, I didn’t once hear anything negative.
Exchanging USD
If you arrive in Buenos Aires with USD, you can exchange it at a better rate than the banks. However, I don’t personally recommend it.
The money exchangers can be found on Florida Street in the popular tourist area. You don’t need to walk for long before coming across someone asking if you want to exchange money.
While many people will tell you it’s entirely okay to exchange money this way, it’s important to know that these services are not regulated. Tourists who exchange their money in this way could be prone to scams.
Of course, it’s up to you whether you want to take the risk or not. But put it this way, using Western Union is much safer and regulated. You also tend to get the best rate.
Paying with credit or debit card in Buenos Aires
Many places in Buenos Aires accept credit cards, but there are a couple of things to be aware of.
Firstly, the exchange rate isn’t always as good. Mastercard and Visa offer “exclusive rates” which are better than the official exchange rate, but still not as good as Western Union’s. At least not when I was there.
Secondly, it’s not uncommon for restaurants, bars, and hotels to charge an extra fee for card transactions. This is especially true when paying for accommodation. My hostel wouldn’t accept a card payment without adding a 20% fee, which is a ridiculous amount.
Lastly, if you’re planning to explore more of Argentina, you’ll likely need cash. While carrying around copious amounts of cash when travelling feels wrong, it’s the easiest and cheapest way to pay for things in Argentina.
Note: while in Buenos Aires, I noticed Mastercard and Visa partnering with restaurants and bars to offer discounts. For example, there was a day when I came across several places offering a 20% discount if you paid with your Visa debit or credit card.
Is Buenos Aires safe to visit?
Buenos Aires has long had a bad reputation for being a dangerous city. However, it’s generally a safe city for tourists. As with all major cities in the world, crimes against tourists do happen, but this isn’t a regular occurrence.
Crimes most likely to occur include phone snatching and pickpocketing, especially in areas such as La Boca.
Whenever in a big city, try to follow some basic guidelines to help you stay safe. This includes:
- Keeping your valuables locked away
- Don’t flaunt your phone or camera
- Don’t walk alone at night
- Stick to the tourist areas
- Trust your instincts
- Don’t take any risks
I never felt unsafe when travelling in Buenos Aires as a solo traveller.
Solo female travel in Buenos Aires
Planning a solo trip to Buenos Aires? Yay! It’s an incredible city and a popular choice for backpackers and nomads.
As I mentioned above, Buenos Aires is generally a safe city for tourists. I met many other solo travellers, including females, all around Argentina.
It’s normal to feel nervous about visiting a foreign country alone, but I believe Argentina is a fantastic option.
Here are a few tips for solo female travellers planning a trip to Buenos Aires:
- Stay in hostels. Hostels are a great way to meet like-minded travellers. Buenos Aires has some great hostels including Casa Franca Recoleta and America del Sur.
- Join group tours. If you don’t want to explore Buenos Aires alone, consider joining tours such as a free walking tour or food tour. This will help you to meet other travellers.
- Don’t walk alone at night. While I always felt safe in Buenos Aires, I wouldn’t recommend walking alone at night, especially away from the likes of Palermo.
- Stay connected. Buy a SIM card to stay connected while travelling alone.
Getting a SIM card
Purchasing a SIM card in Buenos Aires is a good idea to help you stay connected. Most cafes, bars and restaurants have wi-fi, but it’s not always reliable.
The easiest option is to buy an e-sim using Airalo. Using an e-Sim means you can keep your current SIM card and number active. It’s a hassle-free way of staying connected. E-Sims only include data, so you won’t be able to make any calls.
I found the e-Sims for Buenos Aires to be more on the expensive side. As I was staying in the country for almost two months, I decided to purchase a physical SIM card.
The two major networks in Argentina are Movistar and Claro. Both are great, but if you’re visiting Patagonia, go with Claro. I met people on Movistar that had no signal whatsoever.
You’ll need to go to a Claro store to get your SIM card set up. In March 2024, I paid $7 USD for 30 GB over 30 days, which included unlimited minutes and calls within Argentina. Don’t forget your passport—you’ll need it to verify your SIM.
The best things to do in Buenos Aires
There are so many incredible things to do in Buenos Aires. This post is a general guide to Buenos Aires, so I’m not going to list everything here. But here are a few of my favourite things to do in Buenos Aires, especially for first-time visitors.
- Go on a free walking tour. Buenos Aires is full of interesting history and a free walking tour is a great way to learn more about it all. This popular free walking tour takes guests to the major historic spots in the city. If you only have limited time in Buenos Aires, it’s a fantastic activity to orientate yourself and see the highlights.
- Visit La Boca. La Boca is one of the city’s most popular spots. Known for its colourful buildings, the streets of La Boca are a lively place to immerse yourself in local life. (Despite being a touristy area, crimes such as phone snatching are a common occurrence in La Boca. Make sure to stick to the main tourist spots.)
- Join a food tour. The food in Argentina is some of the best I’ve experienced in the world. One of the best ways to experience food in a new country is to join a food tour. This option by Sherpa Food Tours is one of the best-rated food tours in Argentina and the entire world.
- Watch a Tango show. No trip to Buenos Aires would be complete without watching a traditional Tango show. There are various options available including ones which provide dinner and transport. You can also catch free street performances in areas such as La Boca.
- Eat and drink your way through Palermo. This trendy neighbourhood is filled to the brim with cute cafes, lively bars, and delicious restaurants. The vibrant streets are also home to some famous street art.
Extra tip: if you happen to be in Buenos Aires on a Sunday, the area of San Telmo is filled with market stalls selling crafts, antiques, and food.
What to eat in Buenos Aires
Argentina is a food haven, especially for meat and cheese lovers. Almost every meal seems to come with cheese, ham, steak, cake, or pastry in some form. It might not be the most flavoursome food in the world, but it’s delicious nonetheless.
Where to eat in Buenos Aires deserves its own blog post. The city is filled with incredible restaurants and cute cafes.
Here are a few of the must-try foods in Buenos Aires.
- Empanadas: No trip to Argentina is complete without trying an Empanada. These delicious pastries stuffed with cheese and meat are sold all over Buenos Aires. You won’t have to walk far to find your daily serving.
- Pizza: The food in Buenos Aires has a heavy Italian influence. The pizza in Argentina is some of the best I’ve had in my life. It’s very different to traditional Italian pizza, but delicious nonetheless. My favourite pizza in Buenos Aires is from Guerrin.
- Ice cream: Buenos Aires residents love their ice cream. In traditional neighbourhoods like Recoleta, there is an ice cream shop on almost every street.
- Steak: Another staple bite in the Argentinian diet… steak! I’m not a big meat eater, but the steak in Buenos Aires is very good. There are steak restaurants everywhere in the city. Don Julio is one of the most famous.
- Choripan: A fried sausage on some bread. It’s simple but delicious and a must-try while in Buenos Aires. Most smaller delis and grills will serve this traditional dish.
- Pastries and cakes: I wasn’t quite prepared for just how much they love their sweet dishes in Buenos Aires. There seems to be a café or bakery on every corner. Each sells every type of cake and pastry you could ever dream of. Be sure to try the Medialunas – they are like croissants but a bit sweeter. I also recommend heading to Cinna for cinnamon rolls.
Tip: I want to give a special mention to Bushi, a Japanese restaurant in Palermo. The ramen I had here was the best I’ve ever had—even better than when I was in Japan!
Drinking tap water in Buenos Aires
Tap water in Buenos Aires is technically safe to drink, but it’s highly processed. The high levels of chemicals and minerals can cause stomach upsets. I’d try and avoid drinking the tap water if you can. It likely won’t do much harm, but it could be a bit uncomfortable.
I drank tap water in Buenos Aires on several occasions and had no issues. However, it did not taste great, so I preferred to buy bottled water.
Bottled water is very cheap in Buenos Aires. You can buy 6-litre bottles for around $1 USD.
What to pack and wear
Anything seems to go in Buenos Aires. I’ve seen people go to nice restaurants all dressed up and people wearing jeans and trainers. There doesn’t seem to be a particular dress code.
Depending on what time of year you visit, you’ll likely want warm-weather clothes, such as shorts, skirts, and dresses. However, the mornings can be quite cool, even in the summer months, so it’s worth having jeans or long trousers just in case.
I had packed light for my trip to Buenos Aires. I survived with one skirt, one pair of jeans and one pair of loose-fitting trousers.
Here are a few things to consider packing for your trip to Buenos Aires:
- Clothes for warmer weather
- Clothes for when it’s cooler including a light jacket and jeans
- A waterproof coat
- Comfortable shoes (you’ll likely be doing a lot of walking)
- Sun hat and sun protection (the sun in Buenos Aires is STRONG)
- A small day bag, preferably one that goes across your body, will help keep your belongings safe. I love this one from Uniqlo.
The Buenos Aires lifestyle
Time seems to move differently in Buenos Aires. No one ever seems to be in a rush, eating dinner at 10 pm is completely normal and most coffee shops don’t open until mid-morning.
If you’re from the likes of the USA or the UK, this might be a bit of a shock. I remember walking around at 8 am on my first morning looking for coffee but everything was shut. In the evening, most of the restaurants don’t open until 7 or 8 pm and serve food late at night.
Eating out is also a different experience. Many of the restaurants allow you to take your time looking for food and do anything but rush you once you’ve finished.
Basically, life in Buenos Aires is slow and relaxed. Do your best to embrace this. And good luck doing anything in a rush!
Up next: visiting Patagonia while in Argentina? Check out my guides to help you plan your trip.
